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Helpful information

Helpful information

Hey Sonoma County — here are the things we end up explaining on almost every call. Worth knowing before something goes wrong, and worth five minutes this weekend.

Know where your main shutoff is — today

This is the single most useful thing a homeowner can know. When a line lets go, the difference between a wet floor and a wrecked floor is how fast the water stops.

On most Sonoma County homes the main is in one of three places: at the street in a concrete meter box (you'll need a meter key), on an exterior wall near the front hose bib, or in the garage where the line enters. Find it, make sure the valve actually turns, and show everyone in the house.

  • Find it before you need it — not during
  • Turn it fully off and on once a year so it does not seize
  • Keep a meter key with the tools if yours is at the street
  • Water heaters and most toilets and sinks have their own local shutoff too
Brass shutoff valves on a water line
If it's happening right now

Water is running and you can't stop it

In this order, and don't worry about the mess until the water is off.

1 · Shut the main off

Whole-house main first. If you can't reach it or it won't turn, go to the local shutoff under the fixture that's leaking.

2 · Kill power if water is near it

If water is anywhere near outlets, panels or a water heater's electrical, shut that circuit off at the breaker before you wade in.

3 · Open a low faucet

Opening the lowest tap in the house drains the pressure and the standing water in the lines instead of pushing it out of the break.

4 · Take photos

Before you clean up. If insurance ends up involved, the photos taken in the first ten minutes are the ones that matter.

5 · Call us

707-576-8500 during business hours. Tell us what you shut off and what you're seeing — it usually tells us what to bring.

6 · Start drying

Fans, open windows, pull up soaked rugs. Water that sits for two days becomes a much bigger and more expensive problem than the plumbing.

A water heater installed, strapped and insulated

How long things actually last

Rough numbers, and they vary with water quality and use — but if something on your house is well past these, it's worth knowing rather than being surprised.

  • Tank water heater — roughly 8 to 12 years
  • Tankless water heater — roughly 15 to 20 years with descaling
  • Toilet fill valve / flapper — 4 to 5 years, and they are cheap
  • Washing machine hoses — 5 years for rubber; braided stainless lasts far longer
  • Angle stops under sinks — 10 to 15 years, and they seize with age
  • Garbage disposal — 8 to 12 years

Not sure how old your water heater is? We can read the serial number and tell you — no charge.

Seasonal

Two things worth doing every year

Before the first cold snap

We don't get a hard freeze often here, but when we do it's the unprotected outdoor plumbing that goes — hose bibs, exposed lines in crawlspaces, and anything running along an uninsulated exterior wall.

  • Disconnect and drain garden hoses — a connected hose is what usually splits the bib
  • Cover hose bibs with an insulating cap
  • Insulate exposed pipe in the crawlspace and garage
  • On the coldest nights, let one faucet drip and open sink cabinet doors

Before the rain

West county especially — a crawlspace that takes water every winter will eventually take out the plumbing supports and anything wooden it touches.

  • Look in the crawlspace once at the start of the season
  • Clear debris away from foundation vents and yard drains
  • Note any standing water — a leak and a drainage problem look identical at first
  • Check for damp insulation hanging down; it is often the first sign
Rules of thumb

What not to do

Don't pour grease down the drain

It cools and coats the inside of the line. Most kitchen drain blockages we cut out started as cooking grease.

Don't flush "flushable" wipes

They don't break down. They are the single most common cause of a blocked lateral we get called for.

Go easy on chemical drain openers

They can damage older pipe and they rarely clear a real blockage — they just move the problem and make it hazardous to work on.

Don't overtighten a supply line

Hand tight plus a quarter turn. Cranking on a compression nut is a classic way to turn a small drip into a real leak.

Don't ignore a running toilet

A toilet that keeps cycling can waste hundreds of gallons a day. It is usually a $15 part and twenty minutes.

Don't guess on gas

If you smell gas, leave and call PG&E from outside. That's not a wait-till-morning problem, and it isn't a DIY one.

Before we arrive

How to make the visit faster

Clear the area if you can
Under the sink, around the water heater, the crawlspace hatch. Fifteen minutes of moving boxes saves us from doing it on the clock.
Know what changed and when
"It started Tuesday after we ran the washer" is genuinely useful. So is a photo or a short video of the problem while it's happening — a lot of leaks are intermittent and hide when someone shows up.
Have the shutoff accessible
If it's buried in a meter box under a planter, letting us know ahead of time means we bring what we need to get to it.
Contain pets
Doors end up open, and crawlspace hatches end up open. It's safer for everyone, especially the cat.
Ask for the options, not just the price
We'll walk you through the repair, the proper fix and the replacement, and what each one costs and how long it should last. The estimate is free either way — nobody pays to find out what's wrong.

Still not sure what you're looking at?

Send a photo or just describe it on the phone. No charge to come out and diagnose, and no obligation after.